China has a very diverse geography of fertile river valleys, arid deserts and basins, grassy steppes, rocky broken uplands, forested hills, snow-topped mountains, and steamy jungles. Physically about the size of the United States, China has about 1/3 the arable land available for agriculture. In a general sense, northern China is drier than southern China and depends on wheat more than the southern staple, rice. The following paragraphs will introduce the major geographical areas of China.
NASA composite satellite photo of China
North China Plain
The North China Plain is a relatively flat area that covers parts of Hebei, Henan, and the Shandong peninsula. Rivers in the region include the Huai and Hai, which along with the Yellow River, flow into the Pacific. Relatively arable, the land produces crops that include wheat, corn, and sugar beets. To the west of the plain is a high and dry plateau featuring eroded uplands and covering most of Shaanxi and Shanxi provinces. Known as the Loess Plateau, the area is dominated by the Yellow River. The dusty, yellow soil known as “loess” gives China’s second-longest river its name. In early times, vast forests covered part of both the Plain and Plateau areas, though they were obliterated by at least five-thousand years of human habitation.
Loess Plateau
Northeast China Plain: rich, black soil
Northeast China, once known as Manchuria (being the homeland of the Manchu (Manju) people, is bordered by Siberia to the north, North Korea to the east, and Inner Mongolia to the West. Major Rivers include the Heilongjiang River (Amur), Songhua River, and Yalu River (called the Amnok River by Koreans). Large forests of evergreens and northern deciduous trees once covered the area. Even today some parts of the region exhibit rich black soil. Well watered by summers rains and deep winter snows, the region is important in Chinese agriculture and famous for especially tasty rice. The Greater Xing’an Forest is the largest forested area in China today and is home to a few dozen of the remaining Manchurian tigers, as well as sika deer, otters, martens, foxes, eagles, moose, and other animals. The forests are also home to China’s ginseng farming industry. Wild ginseng plants are very rare and command huge prices.
Sika deer
Marten
Moose
Ginseng
Northwest China is characterized by little rainfall, expansive deserts, and plains. Parts of the vast, barren landscapes of the Taklamahan desert and Tarim Basin are reminiscent of recent photographs from Mars. The Silk Road stretched across this seemingly endless territory, moving from oasis to oasis, including the city of Turpan in the Tarim Basin, which bakes in temperatures that rise above 48°Centigrade (over 120° Fahrenheit!) in the second lowest desert basin (154 meters below sea level) on earth.
Oasis and Flaming Mountain in Tarim Basin, near Turpan, Xinjiang
The Hexi Corridor is a narrow strip of desert that runs through mountains in narrow Gansu province, leading to the routes that once led into Xi’an, the ancient capital of China in modern Shaanxi province. Another major desert is the Gobi, which lies north of Gansu and the Ningxia Hui Autonomous Region and comprises part of western Inner Mongolia. Prominent mountain ranges in this region include ranges of the Tianshan and Kunlun Mountains in Xinjiang.
Singing Sands at Dunhuang, Gansu Province, in the Hexi Corridor
Tianshan Mountains near Lake Sailimu in Xinjiang
Tiger Leaping Gorge, upper reaches of Yangzi River, Yunnan Province
Western China is a mountainous land spanned by several of Asia’s largest rivers. The sources of the Yellow River, which courses through the North China Plain, and the Yangzi River, which runs through southern China, are only a few kilometers apart in the eastern part of the Tibetan Plateau, the highest desert region on earth. The watersheds of these major rivers are determined by the Qinling Mountains. Headwaters of the Salween (“Nu” in Chinese), Mekong (“Lancang” in Chinese), and Red rivers that flow into Southeast Asia are also in the same general region of southwest China.
The Yellow River flows through Lanzhou City, Gansu province. Note the famous "walking bridge" on the right
Mekong (Lancang) River, Yunnan Province
The Himalaya Mountains are the highest range on earth and form part of the borders between China, India, Nepal, and Bhutan. Mt. Everest (“Qomolangmu” in Tibetanized Chinese—“Chomolungma” in Tibetan) straddles the border of Nepal and China, reaching 8,850 meters (29,035 feet) in height. The world’s highest major river, Yarlungzangbo, flows off the Tibetan Plateau into the Indian Ocean. The Yarlungzangbo Gorge is the world’s deepest river gorge at 5,382 meters in depth.
The Himalaya mountain range with Mount Everest as seen from the International Space Station, image taken by NASA
Aside from the Xizang Tibetan Autonomous Region, Southwest China also includes Sichuan, Yunnan, and Guizhou provinces, as well as the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region. Vast areas of these entities are covered with broken uplands in the form of red earth hills or limestone karst formations. The fantastical karst formations extend into Southeast Asia, clear to Thailand.
Karst formations along the Lijiang River, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region
The Greater and Lesser Cool Mountains of Sichuan and northern Yunnan provinces are among the highest ranges in the foothills of the Himalayas. The Sichuan basin is the largest and most populous of the fertile lowlands in the southwest and the site of Chengdu, the provincial capital. In the mountains north of Chengdu is the Jiuzhaigou (Nine Village Gulch) National Park, an area of unsurpassed natural beauty in China.
Dujiangyan Irrigation System, constructed around 250 BC, diverts water from Minjiang River, supplying Chengdu with fresh water and preventing floods.
Five Flower Lake, a shallow multi-colored lake whose bottom is criss-crossed by ancient fallen tree trunks, at Jiuzhaigou National Park, Sichuan Province
Jiuzhaigou (Zitsa Degu, in Tibetan) National Park is located in northern Sichuan and is in some ways similar to Yellowstone Park in the western United States. The area of the Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve is approximately 60,000 hectares. Among the natural features are conifer and deciduous forests, rocky mountains, clear running steams, waterfalls, turquoise colored lakes, calcified trees, and schools of native trout (locally call “naked fish” because of their tiny scales). Although a number of Tibetan-style hotels have been built in the park – including the gigantic “Paradise Hotel” in shape of a nomad’s tent – the park is well-regulated and staffed with a large force of young rangers, some of whom are local Tibetans who are familiar with the local flora and fauna. Near the Jiuzhaigou Park are the natural springs called Huanglong (“Yellow Dragon”). A series of calcified terraces descend along a valley beneath a cluster of snowy peaks, the color of the pools changing in an unbelievable array of shades of blue and turquoise depending on the sunlight. Two temples, one Buddhist and one Daoist, stand at the foot of the mountains, blending in with the natural scenery. As in Jiuzhaigou, millions of visitors a year wind their way through the natural landscape on carefully-built wooden walkways. Near the top of the walkway is an oxygen station for hikers who need a boost in the high altitude.
Calcified terraces in Huanglong Spring
Among the animal life in Sichuan are the greater and lesser pandas and the weird takin (Budorcus taxicolor tibetana – something like a cross between an antelope, a goat, and a proboscis monkey). Other animals from the southwest and Tibet include white-lipped deer, water deer (no antlers, but two long fangs!), tufted deer, musk deer (tonquin), snow leopard, and golden monkeys.
Greater panda
Golden monkeys
White-lipped deer
Budorcus taxicolor tibetana
Lesser panda
Areas south of the Yunnan plateau on the borders of Laos and Myanmar, Burma are characterized by high rainfall and a semi-tropical climate. Up on the plateau, Kunming, the capital of Yunnan province, has a mild climate and is known for its year-round springtime weather. A vast wealth of flowers (such as rhododendrons and camellias) and medicinal herbs are found in the forests of Yunnan and Sichuan.
Semi-tropical climate in Xishuangbanna, Yunnan Province
The Southeast is China’s most populous region. It includes the delta of the Yangzi river near Shanghai (Jiangsu, Anhui, and Zhejiang provinces) as well as the culturally diverse provinces of Hunan, Fujian, and Guangdong. The Southeast is characterized by low mountains and divided by rivers with wide, rich bottomlands and coastal plains. The Yangzi delta has long been an important agricultural area, and is known as the “land of fish and rice.” Huge rice fields are common sites throughout the region, the more southerly zones of Guangdong and nearby Hong Kong having a semi-tropical climate.
Rich rice fields in the the Yangzi River delta
Seasonal monsoon rains come in spring and fall all throughout the region. In Shanghai, the winters bring occasional light snowfalls, and moderately cold damp weather. Summers are hot and humid everywhere in the region, and several cities, such as the inland city of Wuhan in Hubei province, are known as “furnaces.” The Zhujiang (Pearl River) runs through Guangzhou, the capital of Guangdong province.
Fish farms in the Pearl River delta, Guangdong province
Taroko Gorge, Taiwan
The climate in Taiwan and Hainan are humid in summer. Both islands feature a mix of mountains and arable lowlands. In recent years Hainan’s beaches near the Sanya resort area have helped stimulate tourism. Mt. Alishan, Sun Moon Lake, and the Taroko Gorges – site of the marble industry – are well-known natural wonders in Taiwan. The Sun Moon Lake area was destroyed in the massive earthquake of September 2001, though historical monuments and tourist facilities there are presently being rebuilt. Near scenic Mt. Alishan is Mount Jade (3,952 meters), the highest mountain in northeast Asia.
Sanya resort, Hainan Island, South China Sea
It should be noted that maps printed in the People’s Republic of China (recognized by the United Nations as the sole government of China) claim less territory for China than maps printed on Taiwan—the Taiwan version claims the Republic of Mongolia as part of the Republic of China (now existing only on Taiwan).
A photograph of Korea taken from space by NASA
The Korean peninsula is situated on the eastern end of the Asian landmass between the islands of Japan and northeast China. It is bordered to the east by what Koreans call the East Sea (Sea of Japan) and to the west by the Yellow Sea. North Koreans call the Yellow Sea “Korea Bay.” The Tsushima Strait divides the Korean Peninsula from the main islands of Japan, a distance of about 200 kilometers. About 3,579 islands are found off of the Korean coastline, which stretches for a total length of 8,460 kilometers and on the western side has a very irregular contour. The Korean peninsula is geologically more stable than either northeast China or Japan, regions that both have a history of serious earthquake activity.
A Demarcation Line that divides North and South Korea runs along the 38th parallel. The line lies within a 4,000 meter-wide Demilitarized Zone known as the DMZ. About 55% of the peninsula’s 220,847 square kilometers are in North Korea, which borders China along the Amnok River (Yalu River in Chinese), and shares a 17 kilometer border with Russia. The remaining 45%, comprising 98,477 square kilometers, lies in South Korea. In total, the size of the peninsula is similar to the state of Minnesota in the USA. (By the way, the 38th parallel runs through the Oval at OSU!)
Mountains are THE significant geographical feature on the Korean peninsula. There are very few lowlands and those that exist tend to be the sites of major cities today. There are also no major lakes in part due in part to a lack of glacial activity. The highest mountain on the Korean peninsula is Mt. Paektu (White Head Mountain), 2,744 meters high. Housing a scenic lake in its crater, Lake Chonji, it is located on the border between North Korea and China. In the mid-1990s North Korean archaeologists claimed to have discovered the bones of Tangun, the legendary founder of the Korean people, near this extinct volcano.
A satellite picture of Mount Paektu and the Lake Chonji, by NASA
Mount Paektu (“Changbaishan”, in Chinese, "Forever White Mountain" in English) is regarded as a sacred place to Koreans, and plays a central role in the creation lore of the Korean people. Mount Paektu straddles the border between the Yanbian Korean Autonomous Prefecture in the eastern part of Jilin Province, China, and the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea. Its uppermost peak is 2,744 meters above sea level. Generally, the mountain summit is capped by snow from October to June. The high peak of Mount Paektu was formed by several volcanic eruptions, with the most recent eruption occurring in 1702. Following the eruption, more than 50 km of forest was destroyed by fire. Today, carbonized wood buried in the volcanic ash around the mountain can still be found. The area around the mountain is rich in natural resources, with more than 2,700 species of plants. In 1980, Mount Paektu was deemed by UNESCO as a part of the “World Network of Biosphere Reserves”, and became an international natural conservation base.
Situated within the caldera of Mt. Paektu is Lake Chonji (“Tianchi”, in Chinese, "Heavenly Pool", in English). Sitting at an altitude of 2,189 meters, it has been recognized as the highest volcanic lake in the world. The crater lake covers an area of 9.82 square kilometers, with a north-south length of 4.85 kilometers and east-west length of 3.35 kilometers. The average depth of the lake is 213 meters, with a maximum depth of 384 meters.
The crater lake at Mount Paektu
Waterfall on Mount Paektu
Sixteen peaks surround the crater of Lake Chonji. A stream flows between a gap in the northern Tianwen and Longmen Peaks, forming the very short Chengcuo River. After flowing for approximately 1,250 meters, the stream gushes out from the mountaintop and forms a waterfall 68 meters high. A huge stone is situated at the edge of the falls, cutting the water into two main steams. These two streams crash into the deep valley below, forming the source of the Songhua River.Currently, Mt. Paektu is a popular tourist destination in China, particularly among tourists from South Korea.
Other important mountains include the Nagnim Range in north-central North Korea and the Kangnam Range between North Korea and China. One of the most famous mountains is Kumgang-san or “Diamond Mountain” (1,638 meters) located just north of the DMZ in the Taebaek Range that runs along the peninsula’s east coast. Volcanic Mt. Halla (1,950 meters) located on the peninsula’s largest island, Jejudo (Cheju-do), is a popular tourist destination in South Korea. Records from the Koryo dynasty (918-1392 AD) indicate that it may have been active within the last thousand years.
The beautiful Kumgang Mountains, North Korea
Waterfall on the island of Jejudo, South Korea
Major rivers include the Amnok (Yalu) River (790 kilometers long) on the North Korea and Chinese border, and the Tumen River, which flow west and east, respectively, in North Korea. The Taedong River flows through Pyongyang, the capital of North Korea, while the Han River flows westwards through Seoul, the capital of South Korea. The 521 kilometer Naktong is the longest river in South Korea.
Bridge between China and North Korea on the Amnok River (Yalu River in Chinese)
Looking south over the Han River, Seoul, South Korea
Map of the Korean DMZ. The DMZ is given in red and the demarcation line is the black line in the middle.
Siberian tiger
Amur Leopard
Roe deer
Red squirrel
Snowfall in Korea
Climate varies significantly between the southern and northern parts of the peninsula. Typically there is a four-season annual cycle, though summers are shorter in the northern areas. While warm currents and winds (including typhoons) from the Pacific give the southern extremes a humid, almost tropical feel in summer, Siberian winds bring heavy snow and sub-freezing temperatures to the northern areas in winter. Average daily high and low temperatures for Pyongyang in North Korea range from about -3 degrees to -13 degrees centigrade in January. Temperatures in Seoul range from -5° C in winter to 25° C degrees in summer. The peninsula is ravaged by fewer typhoons than coastal Japan or China, and rainfall is usually more than adequate.
A satellite photograph of Japan by NASA
Japan is an island nation with one of the most unique geographies of any country on earth. In the elongated assembly of 3,900 islands, there are four major ones: Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku. The islands of Japan lie in several arcs off the eastern coast of the Asian landmass on the convergence point of two tectonic plates. The line between these plates divides the major island of Honshu approximately in half on a north to south axis, creating a “northeast” and “southwest” divide. Thus, Japan has been described as being an arc/trench system on a mobile belt – in other words, the islands are essentially mountaintops between deep ocean trenches in an area of unstable geographic conditions. Another way of geographically dividing Japan is the Pacific side of the main islands and the side bordering on the Japan Sea (what Koreans call the East Sea).
One view of the volcanic cone of Mount Fuji
Kansai and Kanto areas
Cultural differences between the east (Kanto region) and the west (Kansai region) of Honshu date to the earliest times. Political and cultural dynamics between the two regions – to an extent geographically determined –are a prominent theme in Japanese history and bases of power shift between the regions at different times in history. The Kanto region centers on the Kanto plain, the site of the present capital and Japan’s largest city, Tokyo. The early capitals Nara and Kyoto, however, were located in the Kansai region, another area of relatively flat land in the west.
In terms of latitude, Japan lies in the Temperate Zone, though there are seasonal and local fluctuations in weather that bring snows up to three meters deep and sultry summers that feel tropical. Rainfall in Japan is near the highest levels on earth and accounts to some extent for rapid replacement rate of the forest vegetation that still covers two-thirds of the islands. The monsoon pattern includes rainy seasons in both spring and fall (there are a variety of terms in Japanese for the different kinds of rains). The vegetation profile of Japan can more or less be divided into three regions: coniferous forests, cool temperate broad-leafed deciduous forests, and warm temperate evergreen broad-leafed forests. Despite this variety, Japan has no perma-frost areas, no glaciers, and no deserts—features prominent in many other parts of the world.
Mountain forest and river, Kamikochi Marsh, Japan
Lake Biwa is shaped like a biwa lute
A biwa lute (upside down)
Earthquakes and volcanoes are a prominent aspect of the geology. There are about 60 active volcanoes in Japan (close to one tenth of the world total), including Sakurajima (Cherry Blossom) Island. Located near the large southern island of Kyushu, the volcano spills dust each day on nearby urban areas. One offshoot of this aspect of the unstable geography is the wide prevalence of hot springs throughout Japan, a feature that has been incorporated into Japanese culture. Today, many Japanese spend vacations visiting hot springs and natural spas. Japan has a number of freshwater lakes on Honshu and Hokkaido. The largest is Lake Biwa (shaped like a pear-shaped lute called a pipa in Chinese). It is situated roughly between the cities of Kyoto and Nagoya in central Honshu. The body of water lying between Honshu and the island of Shikoku is called the Inland Sea, though it is not surrounded by land.
Lake Biwa
Sakurajima Volcano, one of Japan's active volcanoes
Among the animals of Japan are red-crowned cranes, whooper swans, sea eagles, sika deer, red foxes, and snow monkeys. In some places the snow monkeys have learned to soak in natural hot springs, passing the knowledge to succeeding generations. In recent years, the populations of brown bears (Ursus arctos) in the Shiretoko National Park on Hokkaido Island and Asian black bears in remote parts of Honshu have exploded, resulting in an unprecedented number of bear / human incidents that have included attacks on elderly people in the low-populated rural areas.
Japanese red-crown cranes
Snow monkeys taking a bath in Jigokudani Hot Spring, Nagano Prefecture, Japan
Brown bear (Ursus arctos)
Red fox